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Chapter 10 - The Dousa Ceremony

The two men and those accompanying them continued walking until they reached Birkat al-Azbakiyya, which they found to be a charming garden surrounded by a canal lined with trees. They crossed a bridge into the garden and saw crowds of people rushing in, bustling with excitement.

Ahmad turned to Ghareeb and said,

"Look, we are now at what they call Birkat al-Azbakiyya, and it just so happens that we've arrived during a celebration called 'al-Dousa' (the trampling). Let's take this opportunity to witness it. But first, be very careful with your valuables ... watch out for the pickpockets, who steal things from people's pockets and hands without anyone noticing. It's best if you warn your attendants as well."

Ghareeb lightly dismissed the warning but thanked him and accepted the advice.

Then Ahmad said,

"Look, sir, at that sheikh wearing the turban, riding that purebred horse stepping as gracefully as a bride."

Ghareeb asked, "Who is he?"

Ahmad replied, "He is known as the Sheikh of the Sa'diyya Order, and in a moment, you'll see him pass on horseback over people's backs."

He then placed Ghareeb on an elevated spot so he could see better.

After a while, Ghareeb saw men lying face down on the ground, closely aligned with no space between them, forming a bridge made entirely of people. The sheikh appeared, led by two men holding the horse's bridle and guiding it towards the human bridge. At first, the horse hesitated, but then walked slowly over their backs, the two guides still leading it.

Every time the horse stepped on someone, that person rose joyfully behind him, seeking a blessing from the sheikh's passing.

Ghareeb was shocked by this scene and deeply worried for the safety of those men ... but was even more amazed to learn that none of them was harmed.

The sun was now high in the sky.

Ahmad said,

"It's noon now, sir. We're about a league (approx. 5 km) from the palace, and we still want to explore the rest of the city. Would you honour me by joining me for lunch at my house? It's nearby, and that way we can continue our tour this afternoon, and return to the palace in the evening."

Ghareeb accepted the invitation, and they all walked until they reached a street that led them to an alleyway called Harat Qaysun (Qaysun Alley). They headed toward a large door guarded by a doorman wearing a white turban, whom Ahmad called upon.

When the doorman arrived, Ahmad whispered in his ear to inform the women in the house that strange men would be entering, so they should make way and prepare themselves

Then Ahmad entered the house along with Ghareeb and his companions. They reached an open courtyard, at the front of which was a small door leading to another part of the house connected to the guest reception room (al-mandarah). They entered and sat down on cushions, and coffee was promptly served.

They then ate their meal, seated on a carpet around a table set with various dishes ... including molokhia, rice, and cooked meats. After the meal, coffee was served again.

Ahmad then offered Ghareeb the chance to rest for a nap (qaylula), and Ghareeb accepted. Ahmad led him to an upper floor, where he entered a room that overlooked another courtyard facing the house. Ghareeb took off some of his clothes and lay down to rest.

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